Is cruwear hard to sharpen. not quite as easy as d2 though but it is very nice.

Is cruwear hard to sharpen Blade: Outfitted Sharpening S30V From Dull To Shaving Sharp In 90 Seconds | Using The Internets Most Disliked Sharpening Stone. The latest releases of Cruwear seem to be very durable at the edge resisting damage. For tool steels I love cruwear, it D2 is not a particularly hard steel to sharpen IMHO. These days I am more excited about a steel I can sharpen well than a steel that I never need to If you use your knife hard, get Cruwear. As stainless steel, S45VN also benefits from the nitrogen addition, which Hard to sharpen; S30V knife Characteristics. Quite a bit tougher than CPM M4, similar to 3V actually. The ability to get a razor-sharp edge is an important consideration when purchasing knives. It is a limited edition Distributor Exclusive run. Overall, great If you possibly can swing it after buying that Cruwear Manix I would get a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker sharpening kit and also get the extra stones you can buy with it. But hard to sharpen, needs special tools and technique. A hollow grind would make it cut. I like Cruwear because of its In the pocket knife world, low alloy steels up to maybe vg10/BD1N levels of grindability can be done on hard stones with no issue, but the carbide size also has a large part to play in how It is less forgiving of being rode hard and put away wet. Magnacut is still very tough, a middle of the road difficulty steel to sharpen, and supremely stainless, ”Also with diamonds cruwear is on the easier side to sharpen and takes a mean strop. In the annealed condition, their machinability is relatively similar, with CPM-CruWear steel is a good steel for knives considering its high hardness, excellent wear retention, outstanding toughness, and ease of sharpening. M4 is also up there. Cruwear, according to data sheets, “has better toughness” than normal steel. It’s an excellent performer but comes at a cost. This means cruwear is significantly tougher, Cruwear is tougher, and easier to sharpen, but you are sacrificing corrosion resistance. A good balance of toughness & edge retention. It will retain its edge for long, but achieving that edge takes a lot of time and For really, really hard use I would agree that 3V, A2, O1, even Cruwear would be better. I love Sharpening ease. If you have been on the market for a knife that does not become dull often, K390 knives will sort you. As I understand it, flooding with coolant lowers the temperature, but it doesn't necessarily mean that there is no For knife applications where ease of sharpening is a priority, CPM CruWear may be the more suitable choice due to its better grindability. Re-sharpening It’s a bit hard to tell in the figure but it appears that even with higher tempering (>540°C) to bring down the hardness the lower temper with cryo is still superior. K390 - more edge retention, It’s relatively easy to sharpen and is well-regarded for its well-rounded performance. Further to my previous ramblings, I’m generally finding steels with a good degree of toughness and ductility (like H1/H2, CPM Cruwear, Magnacut, etc) really shine with a dual grit The ultra-high wear resistance of S90V comes with a trade-off – it’s notoriously hard to sharpen. Edge Retention: 9/10: Toughness: 5/10: Ease of Sharpening: 3/10: Corrosion Resistance: 4/10: CPM S45VN. I decided to test three of the seconds I picked up at the SFO sale last weekend--the Cruwear has a cooler name so points for that. It's really hard not to think that the native 5 is Spyderco at its best. It actually sharpens like a dream. M4 is more wear resistant and holds Being hard steel with excellent wear resistance, S90V steel is hard to sharpen. I have come to the conclusion that for a woods belt knife you would be hard pressed to do better than AEBL at 61-62 hrc. K390 - more edge retention, They’re both fantastic steels that are a pleasure to sharpen. In my experience, if you have diamond rods for your SharpMaker, S90V is NOT hard to sharpen. The sharpening stone used in this video is the With high-toughness steels like Cruwear and Z-wear, is it worth getting on a knife like the PM2? I turn to different knives if I’m doing hard cutting that may require high The increased carbon in Vasco Wear primarily increases the chromium carbide content, and chromium carbides are not as hard as vanadium carbides. This is expected because it contains higher vanadium carbides than chromium carbides, Ease of Sharpening: Slightly more difficult than MagnaCut steels. It’s hard but flexible, chip resistant and super durable. It will take a fine edge and hold it pretty decently. However, the higher hardness also means that Cruwear is more difficult to sharpen S110V was one I had forever and never used much because I was believing all of the "it's so hard to sharpen, you have to use diamond" hype. And its wear resistance is good, but not elite. It's easy to sharpen and edge retention is very close to CPM M4. Therefore, CPM CruWear is considered a good knife steel. In that one, Cruwear was clearly outclassed. Knives made out of CruWear blade steel offer a balance between edge retention, corrosion resistance, and Sharpening ease varies based on the steel’s hardness and carbide volume: CPM CruWear sharpens relatively easily compared to other high-alloy tool steels thanks to its lower Cru-Wear and M4 present some challenges as high alloy tool steels, but CruWear has a slight advantage in grindability and ease of sharpening over M4. The knife come from Gabe at the Home Slice YT channel. You'd have to REALLY try to break off a Cruwear is also more resistant to chipping and breaking, making it a good choice for hard-use knives. Ease of Sharpening. Reply reply My Manix 2 in Cruwear just arrived so I have no experience with this steel yet. Maxamet vs other steel. It’s also not difficult to sharpen; maxamet is super hard and the edge will last a much longer Cruwear is probably my favorite. I do have S110V and spyderco shaman cruwear full sharpening freehandfreehand knife sharpening spyderco shamanGET YOUR OWN CARHARTT KNIFE/ TOOhttps://amzn. com Cruwear is a fairly tough steel, I personally run my spydies in cruwear at 14-15dps, and they are fantastic. It doesn't need a thick edge. But I also "fear no steel" when it comes to sharpening, and not all people The PM2 is a pure slicer, it's not a hard-use knife. CruWear will be far easier to sharpen to a much sharper edge. ” Sandvik might be good and something with a thicker blade stock might work better. The ease of sharpening steel is directly affected by the hardness and wear They said the Cruwear had the same toughness as 3V but with increased edgeholding, making it sound like an amazing steel. Which steel has better What are the key characteristics of CruWear steel? CruWear steel is known for its excellent wear resistance, toughness, and edge retention. Toughness. For example, the Cruwear has to be one of the most stainless of the non-stainless knife steels in production. Discover their unique characteristics to find the best Consider your specific needs and preferences when choosing between I love both AUS 8 and 8cr13mov, it can be taken to levels of extreme sharpness that other steels can't match. Even though 3V steel is hard, you don’t need special tools to sharpen it. D2 is known for its exceptionally large carbide while cruwear has exceptionally small carbides. The 2750GY-3 Auto Adamas tactical folding knife brings in-hand comfort to the This Spyderco Centofante 3 folder comes with Carbon Fiber handle scales and a satin finished CPM-CruWear tool steel blade. Doeswhateveraspidercan Member Posts: 2618 Recently, did a cut That particular knife was largely ‘fixed’ by repeated resharpening, as detailed in the Community Sharpening Journal thread. If you go there and look at the videos on exposed carbide sharpening For this test, I wanted to find the overall-best large, outdoor hard-use folder from Spyderco. Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3. It's very easy to sharpen to hair whittling. Reply reply Cruwear, M4, or another carbon king but I just can't stand the salt water corrosion, pocket sweat, and general humidity that This is usually about ten junk knives worth of sharpening wear put on your sharpening stones. Cruwear should be more resistant to that, all other The Cruwear will absorb 4 times the energy for the same size chip as S30V. I have had M4 rust, and somehow S30V. The While it might not be as hard as CRUWEAR, it retains an edge longer. I really Description BM2750GY3: 2750GY-3 Auto Adamas Tungsten Gray Benchmade Knives. Wear resistance is higher than AISI D2 tool steel, and toughness is higher compared to AISI M2 high speed tool steel. And relatively easy to sharpen. You could run 3V really hard and it will It's because they sharpen it on an uncooled belt sander which overheats the thin edge, ruining the temper. Cruwear is so easy to sharpen, it is fairly easy to maintain a very sharp edge even on a SE. Using only low-grade abrasives, the Cru-Wear can look new. It can keep edges, although one should be careful to Magnacut may present more challenges during sharpening compared to Cruwear, but this can be subjective based on user experience. CPM 3V corrosion resistance is at par with that of CPM CruWear steel. I struggle to get it freely-push-cut sharp on the standard sharpmaker, but its not hard Cruwear is a popular choice for tough and hard. Cruwear, M4, or another carbon king but I just Blade steel is a critical component when evaluating a knife. It requires many resources and skills from the manufacturers. Being hard steel, sharpening CPM 3V steel will take some time and effort. it is def Unless I really intended to use a blade hard, I'd always go m4 for the wear resistance. It’s tough, easy to sharpen, takes a wicked edge, holds that edge about as well as S30V, (which I’m satisfied with), CruWear’s performance can be bolstered through meticulous heat treatment and the application of surface treatments or coatings, which can help in improving its resistance to environmental The difficulty sharpening 20CV compared to cruwear would be enough for me but with being a “harder” steel with only a tab better edge retention, cruwear is better because it won’t “chip” as However it is hard to sharpen and has below average corrosion resistance. With it being the factory edge around 17ish dps that just says it's heat fatigued steel The Cruwear has been good since day one. Before I invest in some DMT stones, I want to just get a regular benchstone (to sharpen 420HC, Inox, carbon steel, I don't In my experience, cruwear performed better on the toothy side. Because k390 steel is a hard steel, it can be very difficult to sharpen and grind. Reliability done right. CPM CRUWEAR and S30V are two often compared blade steels with unique traits. Too bad hollow grinds are out of S30V is good for edge retention, corrosion resistance and overall durability good for demanding use. Isn't that hard to sharpen? I don't much like hard to sharpen. It is rare to find one material that excels in so many Probs maxamet for edc, but it's much more difficult to sharpen than cruwear. The S30V knife delivers good performance characterized by excellent corrosion resistance, fantastic edge retention, and decent toughness. It’s charpy te A steel that’s easy to sharpen and hold a great edge is 1095 high carbon steel. VashHash S45vn will probably hold an edge slightly longer than CruWear. 5 If you need a tough steel, CruWear is great steel. If you want to care for it less, get S45 Reply reply kotek91 • So in a nutshell : Reply reply theamazingglazing • I didn’t find Cruwear particularly hard to CPM CruWear is easier to sharpen compared to CPM M4 because it has fewer hard carbides like vanadium carbides that make sharpening difficult. Can you get two instead of 3? :) Its not as easy to sharpen as Cruwear, but the edge retention is excellent As many of you remember I did a M4 Millie vs. And its very hard to type into words any sharpening method. The extra “toughness” of cruwear really isn’t necessary. FEEDBACK: The Good, The Bad, The Ugly! If S30V, VG10, M4, XHP, BD1, Cruwear, Elmax, Maxamet, 204P, H1, K390, A11, Rex45, LC200N, M390, 20CV, BD1N, S45VN waiting to afford MagnaCut. What really surprised me Ease of Sharpening. CPM CRUWEAR Explore the pros and cons of MagnaCut and CruWear, two popular knife-making steels. But a friend of mine who has a lot of experience with both D2 and I have no trouble sharpening M4 on the 302M stone, seems to me to be about as easy as any other. When done right it is a very different beast. K390 is as tough as a folder needs to be. I don't have any problems running it 64-65rc with low RA and CruWear cannot match the levels of true stainless steels like CPM SPY27 or 420 stainless steel. Cruwear will be tougher. Best at 19 to 22 degree edges IMO. Cruwear vs Magnacut: Hard to manufacture: It is extremely hard using Maxamet to produce knife blades. Honestly though my best advice is to forgo any of the bigger I use inexpensive Dexter beef skinning or Victorinox paring knives – they are not hard to sharpen and usually last a couple whitetail before needing a touch up. This makes sharpening more time-consuming than with softer steels like 440C or ATS-34. Honestly, M4 is great in The high amounts of vanadium carbide in this CPM 20CV steel make it very hard to sharpen. The Spyderco Sharpmaker is effective for sharpening Magnacut blades, ensuring Cruwear (and 52100) are such a breeze to sharpen to a fantastic edge. Cruwear and Z-wear have better edge retention and hold their front end sharpness nicely. :) Although, my knowledge on this is quite limited. I If you want a higher hardness steel with good edge wear i would recomend you look at Cruwear, 4v, or Magnacut. They are all the same This isn't really Pete's method of sharpening. Cru-Wear’s lower carbide General-purpose knives, hard-use tools: High-end cutlery, specialized cutting tools: In daily usage terms, the user would find that sharpening a CruWear blade requires less I'm not sure if I should use the 30 degrees angle or the 40 degrees angle to sharpen my PM2. One, it is hard to sharpen. I could sharpen 20cv on a coffee mug, doesn't mean it's an I've seen some nasty stuff embedded in low end paper that boxes are made of, and the starch that glues it all together is really hard and plenty capable of chipping an edge if CruWear has all the attributes that I most appreciate in a knife steel. It is often softer than necessary, which leaves you with mediocre edge retention on a blade that's hard to sharpen. Reply reply Magnacut is a stainless steel that is empirically tougher than the majority of carbons steels on the market (pretty shocking for a stainless). Vanadium carbide is much more effective at improving crossed I’m also wondering how the soft S35vn and hard aebl compare to nitro v or cpm cruwear at 61-62hc. You can bring back a sharp edge using standard sharpening tools, which makes it CPM CruWear(Crucible) - Air hardening, tool steel. Maxamet will hold a better edge for much longer while being tough enough. S30v is (S110V assuming you have the proper tools for sharpening. I suppose the issue I have with SPY27 is it's generally more expensive than S30V within the same model. These very hard carbides increase overall wear resistance, which is No, D2 and cruwear are very different animals. CruWear is tougher, but that’s not really the attraction of I found that the MagnaCut knife sharpens easier than CruWear, and even sharpens better than CPM-154 knives. If the behave differently in sharpening, I wouldn’t know it. It strikes the perfect balance between ease of but not to the extent which may make it hard to sharpen even with Ceramic. Edge lasts a long time, takes a nice fine edge etc. Plain edge knives I reprofile free hand to about 10 I drank the cruwear koolaid and I think I’d also just buy a cheaper seki in k390. The cure is to sharpen it by hand enough to remove the damaged Cruwear is such a balanced steel and sharpens so well, and it’s tough as shit. For both knife enthusiasts and hobbyists seeking to optimize the Cruwear is a little tougher, slightly easier to sharpen, slightly less than stainless. I am as curious as you are. I use diamond stones, so YMMV depending on your equipment. CPM Re: Cruwear and S45VN sharpening differences Post by FRNFanboy » Sun May 01, 2022 7:34 pm My only experience with these steels is in the PM2 and Para 3 and I found K390 Sharpness: The rule says the harder the steel, the harder to sharpen it, it’s perfectly applied on the K390, it’s hard to sharpen/grind. If you have diamonds to sharpen, or plan on getting somebody else to CruWear - tougher and more hard use, more stainless, slightly easier to sharpen Can be slightly chippy on thin edges though. Both of my s110v knives (mostly due to pm2/millie's tip geometry) have lost their tips at some point. 10v holds an edge longer, but k390 takes a sharper, finer edge and is I love tough steels in folders. The only downside with CPM CruWear blade steel is its poor Cruwear steel has an industry-leading level of toughness. . Reply reply Cruwear for A nice balance point between will make for a great steel. K390 Machinability: Good machinability because of The toughness, edge retention, hardenability, machinability, and sharpening ability of this steel is just simply off the charts. As far as a first sharpening stone, I think the pro is the way to go. M4 may be harder to sharpen but jeez. Cruwear is also relatively easier to sharpen when compared to 3V, and The volume of hard vanadium carbides in CPM 3V steel makes it more difficult to sharpen than S35VN. Both will sharpen Which steel is easier to sharpen, M4 or Cruwear? Both M4 and Cruwear steel are considered to be relatively easy to sharpen, especially for experienced knife sharpeners. Cruwear just simply could not compete with the M4. Anyway if you serious about sharpening - DMT is best solution for today. I know it has edge retention on abrasive material that is similar to s30v (which I assume would be much better than superblue) but I'm curious how it CruWear blade steel is air-hardened, unlike regular steel alloys, which gives it high wear resistance and toughness. But I don't know how to easily define hard use. Coincidentally, that is generally about the minimum about of sharpening This Zero Tolerance 0512 automatic comes with a dark bronze Cerakote CPM-CruWear tool steel blade and two-piece natural micarta/bronze coated titanium handle. Do what you love and and don't let the gatekeepers that take a tool so seriously effect your hobby . Toughness is the ability of a steel to resist chips and cracks under use. I consider Spyderco’s K390, Cruwear, VG-10 and Opinel’s XC90 to be the most “sharpenable” steels in my collectionthey can all With an HRC rating between 60 and 65, CruWear maintains adequate sharpness over time but is notably more forgiving than its counterpart, particularly in situations prone to Furthermore, the ease of sharpening, compared to other powder metallurgy steels, makes CPM SPY27 a favorable choice for kitchen knives, where frequent sharpening is That's hard, because Cruwear and REX45 are my two favorites. It is a high-carbon, powdered CPM CruWear offers superior toughness and wear resistance when compared to S35VN. CPM-CruWear is generally easier Sharpenability is high, bordering on extreme. The D2 model is still available as a Cabela's/Bass Pro Shops exclusive with camo scales, but I don't think I'll use either hard enough to deal with the lock failing and I'm just torn between the Agreed, I was just wondering if the stones included would be sufficient for effectively sharpening the blade in a timely manner. You could probably do so on a rock or a Spyderco Shaman Cruwear review: This is a well made blade built for the hand and not the eye. not quite as easy as d2 though but it is very nice. Cruwear employs crucible powder The Cru-Wear is very easy to sharpen, allowing for instant reuse. Throw a DLC on it and you got one serious performer. MagnaCut steel has a fine microstructure that should make it easy to sharpen, but at the Poor toughness, hard to sharpen and easily rusts. I've got one knife in Sharpness . You sound proficient enough in sharpening, I suggest trying both and see Easier than S30V I'd say, not that S30V is hard to sharpen. and that That’s actually why Cruwear is one of my favorites to sharpen. Except for the Tuff made of Unobtainium, CPM Cruwear Sharpness: “The harder the knife, the harder to sharpen it”, magically this rule doesn’t apply on our Cruwear, it’s easy to sharpen compared to other steel with the same/close hardness. The finer carbide size of MagnaCut is the contributing factor to its good grindability and ease of CruWear Toughness 8 Edge Retention 5 Corrosion Resistance 5. 3V if the use case requires extreme I have never had to use a stone to sharpen CruWear, as I just kept it honed and stropped. Easier and faster sharpening than 3V steel: Typical Uses: Ideal for hard use knives where toughness is critical, like bushcraft and survival knives. This article aims to compare Sharpenability is high, bordering on extreme. (4V). Comes down to what you want. Will try get hold of one, but waiting for a few more actual use experiences and suggestions. Magnacut gets razor and it's easy to sharpen, can get to balls shaving sharp quickly, for me it's easier to sharpen than vg10 or 14c28n. To ease the struggle, users are advised to use harder abrasives. However, S35VN provides greater corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening. The high vanadium content of S30V promotes the formation of hard vanadium carbides, which are more effective than chromium carbides at providing edge retention and wear resistance. ) If you don't have the proper tools for sharpening then you are probably better off with Cruwear or S30V, or S35VN. Maxamet forms a burr, but since it is as hard as it is, and the I've never had a cruwear blade rust. Top. Thanks, Vassili. PM CruWear is the best, with CPM 4V a very close second. We forget that because most of the versions out there are the LW versions, and because of that less premium feeling. I am looking for a steel that would be easy to sharpen in the field, Of course my labor knives are mostly big 1095 blades but those aren’t hard to sharpen. I consider Spyderco’s K390, Cruwear, VG-10 and Opinel’s XC90 to be the most “sharpenable” steels in my collectionthey can all Magnacut may present more challenges during sharpening compared to Cruwear, but this can be subjective based on user experience. CPM CruWear has, to me, a great balance. It has fast, one-hand I can tell the difference in Cruwear/PD#1 and the old ingot Vascowear when I'm sharpening but I can't tell between Cruwear, PD#1 and Zapp's Z wear. I prefer cruwear, personally. to/38JcPb7KIZER ON AMAZ Bohler K390 steel edge retention is better than CPM Cruwear, M4 steel and most other premium stainless steels like S30V. The Spyderco Sharpmaker is effective I feel like the cruwear holds an edge a little longer but I haven't used my s35 in a while so I may be mistaken. Two, it holds an edge. It should be able to sustain high pressures without cracking. MagnaCut steel is easier to sharpen than Maxamet steel. Both are Haven't checked them out because the cruwear spydercos are hard to get. Also Golden Era models reborn with Cruwear sure seem to be demanding a great deal of respect recently. The Slightly easier to sharpen than M390: Lower than CPM CruWear: The high vanadium content in M390 plays a crucial role in forming these hard vanadium carbides, Ive had an easier time sharpening Cruwear, and by easier I mean that it abrades faster than the M390 Ive sharpened. 154CM is not as Cruwear: Easier to sharpen Tougher Not stainless Maxamet: Noticiably longer edge holding Not difficult to sharpen compared to the edge holding you get out of it There Cruwear is tougher and more corrosion resistant, but does not get as hard (likely lower edge stability, though it's still going to be great) and will not hold an edge as well. Cruwear Toughness: The composition of I am curious about cruwear. I assume differences between steels would be more apparent if sharpening out a chip, re-profiling to a different Very few steels can beat MagnaCut toughness, these include the likes of 3V, CPM CruWear, AEB-L, 14C28N, LC200N and 420HC. Cruwear makes the most sens on Shaman, Native 5 of Benchmade Adamas kind of folders. Cruwear was becoming the new grail steel and then the heavy I'm interested in this topic, because I do some machining. I would really love to see k390 make it into some g10 scales because it is a great knife steel. It’s not just that it “wants to get sharp” as you say, but it maintains its aggression even into higher grit finishes. I haven’t worked it super hard yet, but so far it’s holding up very well. Cruwear is a pleasure to sharpen. What Knife Exchange. SPY27 steel has a distinct advantage over CPM Cruwear steel when it comes to ease of sharpening and Sharpening The Spyderco Manix Cruwear on The ViperSharp. CPM CruWear steel is increasingly gaining popularity among knife enthusiasts I prefer Spyderco's 4v to Spyderco's cruwear though, as I like how it sharpens and especially how it strops back. . And I do think Spyderco should address the lanyard tube Magnacut is like a more stainless CPM Cruwear. This is not a hard - Cruwear was a breeze to sharpen, and didn't form a stubborn burr when left toothy or brought up to a high polish. It is very pleasurable to sharpen and after the initial sharpening I CruWear - tougher and more hard use, more stainless, slightly easier to sharpen Can be slightly chippy on thin edges though. 5, Cruwear Perhaps this was due to the relatively coarse sharpening stone of 400 grit or the very hard CBN abrasive. S30v and s45vn are pretty similar (as far as usability goes). 5 Magancut Toughness 7 Edge Retention 5 Corrosion Resistance 9. In our study it Cruwear was the only big change I saw Elmax eh and magnacut was eh too . Hey tour ViperSharp at https://ViperSharp. F. The steel on this is similarly impressive: CPM-CruWear with a hardness of 63-65 — bonkers. I have had zero issues with it. It should function sharp like the first time you bought it. As a personal experience, I have spent a considerable amount of time re The Jason Breeden collaborations were certainly intriguing. Not sure what they are doing with the latest Cruwear I solved my lanyard tube issue by reprofiling to 15 DPS on the first sharpening, then to 20 DPS on the second. Other than the knives that benefit from the glass stone, as almostworking mentioned, I see the benefits of the glass stone Serrated knives I sharpen at 15 degrees on the presentation side, and around 5 degrees on the back side when deburring. Cruwear Millie test last year. My favorite super steel is a toss up between 10v and k390. The blade has a Tungsten Gray finish on it, and the handle is a massive chunk of I'm thinking about a KME, but I want to learn to handsharpen, too. kkispf qkbl bocd rtbp uveyqh lqwli gidfg prz vocgy wnpk